As seen in IDAHO MAGAZINE
The Legends of Lava Hot Springs
A Returnee Has a Really Strange Day
By Amy Larson
I thought I
knew all about Lava Hot Springs. Although I live in the Treasure
Valley now, our family moved to
eastern Idaho when I was ten, and
I’ve been to the resort town numerous times. At seventeen, I jumped off the
high dive at the Olympic Swimming Complex. Ten meters doesn’t sound that
dizzying, but it converts to almost thirty-three feet. Here’s a tip on that
one: don’t have your friends cheer you on from below, and make absolutely,
positively sure your hands are at your sides when you hit the water.
Second-degree burns on your palms from a “water burn” can be hard to explain.
About eight
years ago, we tented in Lava during Labor Day weekend when the town was full of
last-chance campers. We spent all day floating the hot springs-infused river
and got second-degree sunburns that day, too. Recently, I sighed happily in the
car at the thought of finally returning, and my heart rate increased as I saw
the blue “Interstate Oasis” sign. Taking exit 47 off Interstate 15, I drove
towards Inkom, McCammon, and Lava. Though it was well into spring, snowflakes
fell. So very Idaho.
Bright-colored
dogwoods framed the nearby river as the sun set. This bold display of crimson,
with the blue-gray water in the foreground, caused me to stop and try to
capture the scene in a photograph. The Portneuf
River meandered back and forth,
leading mesmerized travelers like me right to town. I saw the swimming pool,
the infamous high-dive, and the arches announcing Lava Hot Springs, surely one
of the only welcome signs for a town that has a real waterslide built into it,
which spits you out like a cherry pit into the splashy pool below.
The
Community Center touted bingo on Wednesdays and weekends, and kitty-corner from
that, right before the bridge crossing the Portneuf was a great bronzed animal
with a sign below it that read, “Please do not ride the bull.” Lava has been
holding “Bulls Only” rodeos every August for many moons, justifying a bullish
greeting to those about to enter its gates. The dark, rough lava rock was
everywhere I looked, incorporated voluntarily or otherwise into the landscaping
and architecture of yards, buildings, and walkways. One campground had a large,
curving natural lava wall around it that protected campers from the elements.
I had no
real agenda, and purposely so. My sister, who lives in the area, clued me in to
Lava ways. First off, you call it Lava, like lavender, not Lava like “lawva.”
Natives might graciously tell you it’s fine to use either pronunciation, but
pulling a “lawva” is a giveaway you’re an outsider. Second, this is a lax
place. In summer, people walk through town in flip flops, swim suits and beach
towels, and it’s okay. Crystal-wearing karma seekers coexist with farmers, and
for the most part, everyone gets along. A big old mellow melting pot. Hence my
desire to be Lava-like and have no time frame, no list of to-dos, no worries.
While Lava
comes alive on the weekends with soakers and such, it’s a fairly sleepy town of
around 400 on weekdays. Tuesday afternoon found me moseying along Main
Street, peeking in shop windows, some of the shops
open, some closed. I stepped into a business, and after looking around for a few
minutes, struck up a conversation with one of its owners, who told me that Lava
has a lot more going for it than just the soothing mineral water. He said there
were two main geological faults within this very small town, one running almost
right along the lines of the old Blazer Highway,
(the source of the hot water) and another coming right through the town’s
neighborhood.
The shop
owner said the Shoshone-Bannock (Sho-Ban) tribes who originally dwelt on the
land understood the area to be singular, that they’d embraced and revered its
properties. The tribes wintered there, performing ceremonies to express
appreciation for the water, something they still do to this day. When two
tribes that were typically at odds met in that location, it was understood to
be a neutral resting ground. They called the land Poha-ba or “Land of Healing
Water,” and believed it was a sacred location of
increased spirituality.
Others who
later took over this extremely geothermally-blessed land ensured that the
tribes still had access to it, which still pertains. Should someone from a
local tribe show their Indian ID Card, entrance to the hot pools is, for them,
free of charge.
In 1902, the springs and Portneuf
River were deeded to the state to
make this healthful and recreational place available to all. The town of Lava
Hot Springs began to naturally form around it.
Building a natatorium in 1918, the state of Idaho currently oversees the
operation of various swimming pools and hot baths, via the Lava Hot Springs Foundation.
“If you really want to get some good
information, talk to Kathy,” the shop owner told me, “She’s the director of the
museum here.”
I thanked
the man for the conversation.
“My name’s
Jared,” he said.
“That’s my
son’s name,” I told him, adding, “My name’s Amy.”
“That’s my
sister’s name,” he replied, and we both smiled and shook our heads.
I walked
over to the South Bannock
County Historical
Center, but didn’t see anyone who
looked even remotely like a Kathy. Wandering around, I took photos of fur
samples, Indian portraits, and a cowboy mannequin I named “Red.” I stopped for
a long moment at one curious display, the Legend of the South Bannock County
Goat Bird. According to the plaque, this bird’s existence had been confirmed
just that year by scientists who’d discovered a multitude of bird skeletons in
a mine once sealed by an earth tremor. That mine had now been uncovered through
yet another tremor. The skeleton of a man, John Taog, said to have been an
entrepreneur, had also been found. The goat birds, or Avis caprinus oro, were creatures with goat-like horns. If that
wasn’t odd enough, the birds also produced droppings of pure gold. Seeing an
opportunity, Taog hired a few Sho-Bans, who supposedly didn’t know the
droppings’ market value, to harvest the valuable excretions. The pile of bird
droppings found were said to be safely stored in the museum’s vault.
“No way,” I
laughed. “Gold poo?”
I gazed at
a wooden carving of the abnormal feathered friend, with its horns and what
appeared to be a tuft of a goatee beard, as I oscillated between a couple of
different thoughts. First, why would they put ‘legend confirmed’ in a museum?
Museums don’t lie, right? The other thought was that the carved bird looked
suspiciously like a joke. If the species was real, why not display the
skeleton, or even one or two of the real droppings? Still, I’d heard of some
pretty weird things in the past that I’d balked at, and then later discovered
to be true. I just plain didn’t know. Instead of looking gullible while in town,
I decided to ask my sister about the goat birds later on. She’d probably know.
Leaving the
Historical Center,
I walked up the street past the resort’s steaming water to the Sunken
Garden. After hearing random talk of
its spiritual healing, I wanted to try the place out. Crunching onto the gravel
path leading through walls of lava and travertine rock with its built-in
benches and naturally occurring caves, I touched the rough and scratchy
surfaces, thinking of the individuals who must have done that long before my
visit. I wanted to sit in the gazebo and take some quiet time to contemplate,
ponder, meditate.
Finding a
rocky bench under the shelter facing the intricate lava walls, I closed my eyes
and waited. At first, I thought I was the victim of an active imagination,
which wasn’t much of a stretch after recently reading about birds that dropped
gold out of their backsides. But no, there it was, a definite hum, a vibration.
Over and over again, I felt waves of it. It was cool, yet slightly disturbing.
What could it mean?
I left the Sunken
Garden feeling certain I’d just
experienced something profound. Turning back into town, I walked to a diner.
Mounds of onion rings and finger steaks with Idaho-style special sauce were
hard to resist, so I didn’t. Planning to take a soak, but recalling one should
never swim on too full of a stomach, I decided to walk up the other end of Main
Street to the hill up yonder. Quaint rental
cottages and the home of Charlie Potter, one of the town’s founders, lined the
sidewalk. I heard a tomcat howl, sounding like a small child wailing, then saw
the tom and another cat facing off on a nearby lawn. I stopped, watching the
animals prepare for a battle that never happened, no matter how long I
lingered. Perhaps the animals, too, were aware that this was a “neutral resting
ground.”
Just over
the hill, I saw it. The sign indicated a splendid manor one-half mile to the
left. I wanted to see it, and a half mile was no big deal, until I realized it
was all uphill. In the midst of labored breathing, I thought to myself, “This
had better be worth it.” At the summit, I expected to see a dramatic estate,
but there was nothing other than endless hills and valleys beyond. I spotted
another sign in the distance, pointing to the left. I began to grumble, yet
laughed at intervals when the occasional vehicle passed by. I wasn’t dressed
for a hike, I was dressed for the mall, complete with silver-studded handbag.
They’d wave, I’d wave. Thankfully, no
one stopped or asked any questions.
I turned,
about to hike up yet another hill. It all began to be more worth it when five
large deer crossed my path, leaped into a stand of trees nearby, and shyly
peeked out.
“I can still see you,” I told them.
Five inches
of pea gravel made traversing technical, with the peas threatening to pop into
my shoes. I saw a gigantic log cabin estate. “That must be it,” I thought
thankfully, but it wasn’t. The driveway was chained off. The only other house
looked like more of a residence, not a manor. When I walked up to it, I saw the
manor sign. I snapped a picture and began to walk away, just as I heard the
front door open. Spinning around, someone waved at me, inviting me in for a
free tour. Why not?
The manor
housed creatively decorated, royal-style theme rooms. The high-backed,
hand-carved chairs at this bed and breakfast gone medieval were surprising. The
kicker, though, was in the basement. Moving the bookshelves out of the way and
dramatically sweeping aside a purple, crushed velvet curtain, we descended a
winding metal stairway into the depths. Phantom of the Opera music suddenly
began to play. Thirty minutes ago, I’d been eating onion rings in a relatively
normal, small-town diner. Now I was in the basement of a mountain house in the
middle of nowhere, surrounded by flickering candles, red roses, a mirror with
the Phantom himself looking at me from the other side of the glass, and Box
Five, complete with an old-time organ. This was turning out to be a really,
really strange day.
As I
trekked down back down the gravel road, I noticed the deer had disappeared. The
sun was setting and I had visions of a) walking in the dark along the highway
with my non-hiker clothing and silver-studded purse, looking kind of
ridiculous, and b) being eaten by a passing cougar. Mind wandering, I
remembered how in 1995 this was the town where lions, ligers (a lion-tiger mix)
and hybrid wolves escaped nearby Ligertown when owner Robert Fieber was
attacked by one of his own animals, and the rest got loose. I shook my head,
knowing that was a long time ago, and that because of the ruckus, Ligertown had
been disbanded.
Taking what
I thought was a short cut, I crossed a narrow street just in time to see two
black shadows bounding towards me, barking ferociously. I assumed I would soon be a goner, not at the
claws and fangs of a cougar or even a liger, but of two black devil dogs.
“Bulldozer! Shadow!” a woman’s voice called. The names didn’t make me think
they were heading my direction for a friendly pat on the head. Miraculously,
they stopped, and then nuzzled my hands.
“Do you
have a dog?” the woman asked. “They probably smell your dog on your jeans.”
There was
no denying at that point that I did, in fact, have a dog. A neutral resting ground, I thought once more, happy I hadn’t been
devoured after all.
That
evening, I asked my sister about the goat birds, the golden droppings, and the
manor. She’d never heard of the goat birds or their golden droppings, but her
husband had installed some flooring in the manor.
The next
day I arrived back in Lava with a list of questions, among them:
1. What’s the deal with the goat birds?
2. Did the waters really heal people?
3. What was that humming I’d felt in the Sunken
Garden?
I went into
the first shop that caught my attention, and struck up a conversation with the
lady at the register. She’d never heard of any goat birds, either. I showed her
the pictures I’d taken of the write up in the museum, briefly told her all
about John Taog, the cave, the skeletons, and the pile of golden poo in the vault.
She told me to ask Kathy at the museum, which I fully intended to do. Right
then and there, a large wave of doubt washed over me.
“If that’s
some sort of town joke, I’m going to laugh really hard,” I told her, already
laughing. Seconds later, the cashier’s husband walked in.
“Hey,” she
said, “Do you know the legend of the goat bird?”
“Yeah, the
one about the bird that lays golden droppings,” he replied.
“Why
haven’t I ever heard about it?” the cashier asked.
“Because it
isn’t true,” her husband said.
“I knew it,” I said, semi-honestly.
I was soon
seated across from Kathy Sher at the South
Bannock County Historical
Center. She too, had become
fascinated with Lava Hot Springs. After what she thought was a temporary move
to Idaho, the state worked its way
into her heart and a few years later, she bought a house in Lava on a whim. The
people were so wonderful and accepting, she says, that she’s stayed for thirty
years and counting. Jumping in with both feet (sort of like my pencil dive, but
I’m sure Kathy had much better form), she now sits on the City Council.
Her
fondness for the area is evident as she tells of Lava’s history, something she
does daily at the museum. When I asked about the varied demographics of the
populace, she nodded. “Lava was built on diversity,” Kathy began. Mostly
inhabited by Native American Indians, trappers had discovered the area as far
back as 1812. Several others in the trapping business traversed the land in the
1830s, but really by the 1860s, most people were still using the area as a pass
through to elsewhere. The entrepreneurial trapper Bob Dempsey saw opportunity
around the time of 1851, providing traveling parties with fresh horses. The
land offered a natural draw for travelers with its water, timber, and good
grazing ground.
In 1862 when gold was discovered in Montana
Territory, multitudes of miners
passed through, moving along the Portneuf. Enterprising individuals turned a
profit from being able to provide stage stops and feed. It was estimated that
by 1875, many who’d pioneered across the country had gone through South
Bannock County.
Historically, the town was created through a good deal of
cooperation. There are wonderful stories about the founding settler, Charlie
Potter, who had a large family with lots of children. One
winter, he gave one of his few hogs to new homesteading neighbors, so they
could make it through the cold months. His wife, understandably worried, became
very upset with him for donating the food. Charlie put his foot down, telling
her that was just the way it was, that a person helps their neighbors, period.
“He was a very good community leader,” Kathy said.
I admitted
to the museum director that they’d gotten me with the goat bird thing. Kathy
laughed so hard, she started coughing. It seems Don Worthylake, a retired
journalist and obvious humorist, conceived the goat bird story. As a former
volunteer for the Museum of Natural
History in Idaho,
and a recently retired Board President, this also-woodcarver hand made the goat
birds to sell, raising money for the museum. Goat birds were marketed in the
eighties and nineties, delighting and mystifying visitors (like myself), much
like the well-known Idaho
jackalopes.
Lava, it
appears, is a town with a sense of mirth, and it has influenced Kathy. She
showed me around the museum building, which was once a bank. When we got to the
vault area, she leaned over towards me and whispered, “This is where we keep
the golden droppings.”
Next stop:
the water itself. The sixteen beneficial minerals were permitted to go to task
on my bad shoulder. After one hour of soaking, I felt better. Not scientific at
all, but for me, it seemed to work. Kathy told me there were people who swore
by the stuff.
Last stop:
a return to the Sunken Garden
to get to the bottom of that hum. I walked along the path, touching the rock
walls as before. I took the same route back to the gazebo, sat, and waited
expectantly. Hum. Hum. Hum. What on earth could that be?
I looked up in time to see a semi-truck passing by on the
highway above. The entire hillside was one big piece of lava rock, so it only
made sense the vibrations from the highway made their way down to the concrete
bench where I now sat. Hum. Hum. Hum.
Some are
historical and some are homemade, but there is no doubt about it: Lava is chock
full of legends.
*For more Appetite for Idaho, visit me on Facebook and Twitter.
Oh, and watch for the Appetite for Idaho book, due out soon: Part memoir, part anthology, part foodie heaven with recipes from Heather Lauer, Vickie Holbrook, Randy Scott, and Larry Gebert.
*For more adventures in Idaho, (with recipes between the stories!) get the "Appetite for Idaho" book here.
And visit the Appetite for Idaho Facebook page, with new stuff to do posted every weekday!
*For more Appetite for Idaho, visit me on Facebook and Twitter.
Oh, and watch for the Appetite for Idaho book, due out soon: Part memoir, part anthology, part foodie heaven with recipes from Heather Lauer, Vickie Holbrook, Randy Scott, and Larry Gebert.
*For more adventures in Idaho, (with recipes between the stories!) get the "Appetite for Idaho" book here.
And visit the Appetite for Idaho Facebook page, with new stuff to do posted every weekday!